7 things you should know before getting a gel manicure

Opting for regular nail polish sometimes seems like a waste since the colour easily chips off. One alternative, gel manicures, lasts much longer and generally costs more, too. It could be worth the investment if you avoid common mistakes and remember these things before your first gel manicure.

“The perks of a gel manicure include its longevity (often ten days or more!),” says Mabelyn Martin, creative director at Paintbox nail studio. Unlike regular polish, which can chip after two to three days, they’re borderline indestructible, which makes them ideal for weddings, special occasions and holidays. Plus, gel manicures cure in seconds, Martin explains, so you can leave the salon without worrying about smudging your manicure. She also adds that while the gel is on your nails, it’s like wearing a layer of protective armour that keeps your nails from breaking.

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The application of gel is not totally different from the application of a traditional polish, with the exception of the curing process under the UV-emitting lamps, according to dermatologist, Dr Chris G. Adigun. And therein lies the potential problem. “These lamps are not to be underestimated, even though the exposure times are brief,” Dr Adigun says. “They are very powerful and are emitting UVA rays far more powerful than those emitted by the sun.” She recommends purchasing a UVA-blocking sleeve, and bringing it to the nail salon to wear while your gel polish is curing. LED lights are actually no safer than traditional fluorescent UV lamps. In fact, according to Dr Adigun, they emit exponentially more powerful UVA rays, which is why the curing times are shorter.

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It’s not just the UV light that’s potentially damaging. While an experienced nail tech will always make sure the correct lamp is used with the proprietary gel polish for the recommended amount of time, it’s easy to mess up the steps. “Any alteration in these variables can lead to polish that is over-cured to the nail plate that becomes very difficult to remove,” explains Dr Adigun. “A properly applied gel should literally ‘float’ off the nail with the acetone soak. However, when a gel is not properly cured, it will not come off, and needs to be manually chipped off, which is very traumatising to the nail plate.”

There is evidence to suggest that the gel manicure process can lead to dehydration and thinning of the nail plate. “In one study, nail plate thickness was measured both before and after a gel manicure, and thinning of the nail was observed,” notes Dr Adigun. She says that acetone is known to thin the nail plate but the gel polish may contribute to the thinning as well.

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Removing gel polish doesn’t have to mean complete nail destruction. For the most part, nail technicians remove soft gels with an acetone soak-off process. “Gently file the surface of the nail to initiate the break-down of the outer coat of the gel,” says influential manicurist and nail artist Jin Soon Choi. Next, place a small piece of acetone-soaked cotton and cover with tin foil. Pro tip: placing nails into a nitrile glove will speed up the process. After 7 to 10 minutes, the gel should be crinkling up.

According to Dr Adigun, it’s absolutely fine to get gel manicures every once in a while. “I simply recommend to my patients that they take gel manicure detoxes intermittently to allow their nails to rehydrate and repair.”

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“You need to do major moisturising after you remove a gel manicure,” Choi says. “Soak your nails in a warm lotion that contains vitamin E and use cuticle oil as often as possible.” Choi also suggests indulging in a salon paraffin treatment to aid in recovery. This will help repair any damage and strengthen nails.

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Source: RD.com