How to Grow Shallots

True shallots are the most delicately flavoured of the true onions, multiplying into easily separated clumps of up to 12 bulbs, and much prized by cooks. Shallots are sometimes confused with spring onions, which are young onions harvested when green and leafy, before their bulbs have enlarged.

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Shallot bulb growing Photo: iStock

Planning the crop
Shallots prefer a sunny position and well-drained soil with good levels of organic matter. They ideally require a pH between 6.5 and 7.5 – around neutral. They do not tolerate very acid soils, which should be modified with either lime or, preferably, dolomite, which will also add magnesium.

How many to grow- Seed merchants sell shallots by weight; there are 40–60 bulbs in a kilogram. Thirty shallots planted in a 4.5m row will produce a crop of up to 3 kg.

Varieties- Most garden centres only stock one or two varieties of shallots for sale by weight. There is a bigger choice of pre-packed shallots that are sold through mail order.

Native de Niort- A large, flask-shaped variety with chestnut brown skin and reddish-suffused flesh.

Golden Gourmet- A mild, sweet-flavoured variety, small to medium in size, with golden skin.

French- A hardy, orange-skinned, purple-fleshed variety that reliably produces six to eight bulbs annually and has a delicate garlic fragrance.

Frog’s Leg or Chicken’s Leg- A highly productive variety with sweet, mild, purple-suffused flesh, orange-brown skin and a shape that resembles the thigh of a frog or chicken.

Growing tips
Plant shallots in late winter or early spring. If the soil is light, push the bulbs in firmly so that they are buried three-quarters deep. On firmer soils, make a hole with the tip of a trowel or draw a drill with a hoe. In either case, leave only the tip of the bulb protruding. Allow 15 cm between bulbs and 30 cm between rows. After a week or two, replant any bulbs that have become dislodged. Hoe regularly to keep the weeds down throughout spring and early summer. Remember to water during dry spells.

Pests and diseases
Onion maggot is the principal pest to attack shallots. The most common diseases are downy mildew, pink root, purple blotch, caused by the Alternaria porri fungus, and white rot. Fusarium wilt can also be a problem if crop rotation is not maintained.

Harvesting and storing
When foliage dies back in late summer or early autumn, lift clumps of shallots and lay them out to dry for a few days. When foliage has withered completely, split the clumps into single bulbs and leave to ripen for a few days. Store in a net or basket in a cool, dry place.

From: Grow Your Own Fruit & Vegetables The Easy Way