Tools: Bank of 4–8 agricultural spray nozzles plus hose; bolt cutters; bull float; chalk line; hammer; high-pressure water cleaner; measuring tape; screed board; sledgehammer; spirit level; steel float/cove float; stringline; lump hammer and bolster; water level; wheelbarrow, shovels and rake; pliers. Additionally, Bobcat and tipper, plate compactor and jackhammer (hired). These materials and tools are available from Builders Warehouse, who can also advise you as to where some requirements (such as a compactor or the Bobcat and its operator, and tipper) can be hired.

Materials: Quantities will vary with individual jobs. Plastic expansion joint 50mm x 3m; sheets of reinforcing mesh 6 x 2.4m; bar chairs 50–65mm; tie wire; roadbase; timber formwork 100 x 50mm; timber pegs 450 x 50 x 50mm; sealer and tint as appropriate; hydrochloric acid; ready-mixed concrete.


Site preparation

STEP 1
Set out the area to be concreted roughly, using timber pegs marked with the finished height of the concrete. These marks indicate whether the site requires fill or excavation. If fill is required, use roadbase and compact it thoroughly. Clay fill may lead to cracking and/or sinkage problems later.
 

STEP 2
Excavate the site to a depth of 175mm below the finished height. If you decide to hire a Bobcat, use it to spread roadbase to a minimum depth of 75mm. Screed the roadbase, using a straightedge to roughly level the surface.

 

STEP 3
Lightly hose the base and bed it down with a plate compactor to ensure the surface that will support the drive is solid.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If concrete footings are too high, or if they will obstruct the drainage grate positions at the garage entry, they can be cut away using a tool such as an electric jackhammer
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Establish finished height levels. Transfer set-out levels from one side of the driveway to the other using a water level. Alternatively, use a straightedge and spirit level to do the same job.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To locate set-out marks on sloping sites, use a straightedge and spirit level to plumb down from a taut stringline held on the correct line.

 

 

 

 

 

To set finished concrete levels on existing structures such as brickwork or render, snap a chalk line at the correct angle. Fix expansion material such as Jointex (which is usually nailed into brick joints) at the angle given by the chalk line.