Bedside tables can take up a lot of space and don’t always have enough room for all the bits and pieces we like to keep handy. This bedhead is the perfect space-saving storage solution.

Materials

The material used for this project is a pre-finished melamine with a woodgrain finish. Cutting this material is very diffi cult to do accurately and chip free, so it’s advisable to seek the assistance of your cut-to-size specialist.

Joining the front and back panels

To achieve the overall height of 1700 mm, the front and back panels need to be joined together. The width of the sheet is 1220 mm. Therefore, joining both 1200 and 500 mm pieces together will give the correct height. The join line is located in the least obtrusive position at the bottom of the unit and corresponds with the height of the fi xed panel. You can use a biscuit join to connect the two pieces, but dowels could also be used. Position the biscuits 100 mm in from each end and two more equally spaced (Photo 1).

Apply glue to both edges to compensate for some of it being adsorbed into the MDF. Use a glue roller for even glue coverage of the entire edge, which will produce a stronger bond. Clamp pieces together with pipe clamps, ensuring scrap material is used to protect the edge and apply even clamp pressure along the full length of the join (Photo 2).

TIP: Positioning one clamp on top and one below the job will ensure fl at glue up is produced. This method will counteract the natural tendency to pull to the top face (Photo 3). Set the clamped assembly aside and allow to dry.

Cabinets – marking out

The ends are easily marked in pairs, indicating the top with a ‘t’ to avoid confusion. For fl exibility, the shelves are adjustable. Begin marking out from the top and measuring down 291 mm, then 582 mm, then 873 mm (Photo 4). Photo 5 shows alternative shelf positions that are 50 mm above and below the centre. The fi xed mid shelf is positioned 500 mm up from the bottom of the end. This can now be marked.

Square all lines down the front edges of both ends and mark the position of the fi xed shelf with an ‘X’ (Photo 6). Open up the ends and orient them on the bench with the front edges opposing each other. Transfer the lines across the inside faces to indicate the shelf positions. The adjustable shelf holes are positioned 35 mm in from the edge and can be marked with a combination square (Photo 7).

The holes may be drilled on either a drill press or, alternatively, by hand with some masking tape acting as the depth stop (Photo 8). The holes are drilled to a depth of 10 mm. To aid with assembly, use a dry biscuit joint to attach the fi xed bottom panel. Positioning the panel back slightly behind the front edge of the cabinet creates a shadow line and adds dimension to the overall look. The position of this panel is 21 mm back from the front edge.

Photo 9 shows the panel securely clamped in position and the biscuit machining operation. You can raise the bottom of the cabinet by 15 mm to increase stability. This creates a point load effect and reduces the surface contact with a potentially uneven fl oor.

Assembly

Assembly of the cabinet is quite straightforward. In this case, it is an acceptable method to screw through the face of the ends, as these screws will ultimately be concealed by the front and back panels. Photo 11 shows the partassembled cabinet prior to the fi nal end being attached with 50 x 8 g particleboard screws.

TIP: It is essential that pilot holes are drilled to avoid splitting. Attach the back panel with screws, ensuring it is fl ush with the end and top. Attaching the front and back panels is done by screwing from the inside face with 28 x 8 g screws.

To continue with the dimensional look of the unit, the front edge of the cabinet is set back by 10 mm to allow for the 5 mm overhang of the top panel. Photo 12 highlights this detail. The top panel is also attached with 28 x 8 g screws.

Finally, you can position the shelves on 5 mm shelf supports.